Marie-Louis Dreyer • September 6, 2023

**Spoiler alert** We do not just "slap on a coat of paint".

Lately, some manufacturers are excluding chassis corrosion damage from their warrantees, so looking into rust protection on the chassis and underbody has become the next step in vehicle maintenance.


When it comes to a long term, durable and effective anti-corrosion chassis treatment, Anthony has perfected the process.

After almost 30 years as a high-end detailer, with most spent researching more effective ways to treat and prevent chassis corrosion, the Anthony Military Treatment checks every box, from aesthetically pleasing to tough as nails with sky high corrosion preventive properties.


As one would imagine, restoring a vehicle chassis to near as factory finish as possible, is not an overnight project.

A minimum of five to six working days are required for an Anthony masterpiece.


Sud 'n scrub.

Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance.  This is true in life and chassis.

The best coating in the world will not adhere to an incorrectly prepared substrate.  Thorough cleaning is essential.

A heavy-duty degreaser is applied with a foam cannon, agitated with a brush and then rinsed off using high-pressure hot water and steam.  This process is repeated until the chassis is completely devoid of all grease, road grime and all mud and sand stuck in various nooks and crannies. 

We do ask that you please have the chassis cleaned of excess mud before booking in. Excessively dirty chassis are charged extra for cleaning.


Remember how Granny's kitchen sink used to shine?  We would make her proud.


Out! Out! Damned rust!

Much like Lady McBeth's blood-stained hands, established rust is notoriously hard to remove. Converters have proven to be ineffective and a more hands-on approach is needed. We use chelating agents, which neutralise the rust, causing it to fall from the substrate, leaving clean metal behind.  Sometimes the rust has eaten so deep into the metal that nylon brushes, flapper discs and good old elbow grease and sandpaper are the only ways to remove it. We try to stay clear of wire brushes as they have a tendency to break, leaving wire particles embedded in the chassis, which will cause rust to form in those areas.


Should we find that the chassis integrity has been compromised by the depth of the corrosion, we will inform the customer and have those sections repaired by cutting out the affected areas and welding in new sections.


Wrap it like a birthday present.

Now that the chassis is clean and rust free, the final preparation stage begins.

First, the entire body of the vehicle is wrapped with industrial pallet wrap.  We take special precautions to avoid overspray on the body of the vehicle.

All plastic and rubber components, shocks, brake calipers, exhaust and gearbox (including the transfer case) are covered up with masking tape and wrapping material. Our aim is to restore that chassis to as close to factory quality as possible.

Our team even tape up serial number plates and stickers, to ensure complete restoration to its original glory!


New coat. Wear it like a Boss!

Finally, we are ready for the first coating.

Our Heavy Duty Marine Coating is applied first.  This coating is manufactured for us, is not freely available on the market, and comes with a Milspec certification. Flexibility and durability, with top shelf anti-corrosion properties and incredible adhesion, makes this coating, in our opinion, the Rolls Royce of chassis coatings. This coating is guaranteed to not flake, peel, crack or rust creep. Should the paint break due to mechanical removal, touch ups are quick, as only the affected area needs to be treated, unlike other coatings where the entire coating needs to be removed first and then recoated.

The entire chassis, underbody, wheel wells and hubs are treated.  Every. Single. Nook. And. Cranny.

Being a thin film coating, nuts and bolt sizes are not affected.  Your mechanic will be grateful.


Important to remember.  Even though the paint is touch dry upon collection, 10 days curing is required before taking the vehicle on an off-roading adventure.


Pass the lube, babe.

The paint coating has dried, the chassis looks spectacular.

Now for the final coating, also acting as an additional sealant.

Our Corrosion Preventive, Penetrating Drying Oil is exactly what it claims to be.

Goes on like an oil, penetrates the substrate and dries up, leaving a barrier that has been salt, acid and alkaline drag tested. Cleaning after a bit of fun in the mud now becomes much easier as dirt should fall off readily when rinsed with water.

This oil is also applied behind the fenders and any other hard to reach areas where a paint coating is not advised.


The chassis cavity is treated with a Corrosion Preventive, Drying Wax.  This wax is also used between overlapping plates and between the leaf springs, in as much as we can reach these areas with our equipment.


What?! There is more?!

Of course, there is...

Being an Auto Cosmetician at heart, Anthony strives to present every vehicle in a condition that would make a dealer principal giddy with pride. 

The water channels below the door panels are cleaned and the cavity is coated with the same drying oil as used on the chassis.  All nuts, bolts and hinges around the door panels are also treated with this clear coat.


The engine bay is detailed by hand, and nuts, bolts and hinges are treated with the drying oil. The bonnet cavity is also coated.

Before collection, the vehicle is rinsed, dried and prepped for delivery. 


If you opt for the Military Plus Option, you can also expect a full body decontamination (industrial fallout removal), stage 1 polish, UV Protective coating and a mini-interior.


Just take my money, please!

With proper care and maintenance, an Anthony Chassis will last for years.


No coating is bullet proof, and we understand that most vehicles sporting our treatment will spend extensive time in the bush, on the beach and in the dunes.  When chips and sandblasting happen, do not fret.  Touch ups are on the house, if you bring your vehicle in for a paid chassis clean every 6 to 12 months, depending on the punishment the chassis endured. 

Mechanical removal, or rust forming underneath the original factory coating/rubberising is excluded.  Removal of the factory coating/rubberising prior to coating is possible and quoted additionally.


All in all, money well spent, adding years to the longevity of your vehicle, and giving you the peace of mind that the spine of your vehicle will not deteriorate due to corrosion.



 






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By Marie-Louis Dreyer May 16, 2023
Getting stuck with your vehicle is never fun. Well, it is. Sometimes. We being children at heart and all that. After the recovery, life does not go on as usual. You now have salt particles stuck in the engine, on the chassis and all over the body. And this needs to be removed ASAP! This is also true for those occasion when you travel through rivers, play in the mud or chase the tides. Spraying down with water only is not enough. Applying a degreaser and giving it a good wash – not so much either. What is needed here is a thorough, deep rinse with a solution that will convert salt layers into water soluble particles . Wash with an anti-corrosion cleaner and rinse with clean water to remove all contaminants. Follow through with an oil treatment on the chassis and engine bay and a quick detailer on the body to bring back the luster and shine.  Looking after you vehicle and using the correct products at the right time will keep your vehicle rust free and add many years to the longevity of the structure.
By Marie-Louis Dreyer May 16, 2023
We all know and understand the importance of vehicle maintenance. In today’s economy, it almost goes without saying that prevention is better than cure, cure being replacing expensive parts and components due to corrosion damage. In the past, attention was placed mainly on body and engine maintenance. The chassis, being out of sight, seldom received love and attention, with potential dire consequences. Thankfully, this trend is rapidly changing. Let’s be honest. Your vehicle chassis carries the entire weight of your vehicle, passengers and goods being transported. When corrosion sets in, it compromises the integrity of the chassis, thereby placing you at risk by snapping or breaking and causing an accident or worse. Slapping on a coat of paint only hides the rust. This is not the ideal solution as rust continues to creep underneath the paint, slowly eating away at the substrate. It is therefore critical to choose the correct anti-corrosion treatment for your vehicle chassis. Let’s look at some options available on the market. Rust Converters Whilst these products are excellent for use in and around the house, as a chassis treatment it offers only temporary protection. Chassis rust needs to be completely removed with a chelating agent and / or sanding and mechanical removal. A rust converter will generally convert the top layer of rust, leaving the remaining rust to continue corroding the substrate. Bitumen and Rubberising Once again, fantastic products, when used as waterproofing. In our South African environment with hot summers, Bitumen softens in the heat, allowing contaminants to migrate to the substrate. When it cools down, it contracts again, trapping these contaminates, causing corrosion where the eye cannot see. A pin prick of damage in rubberising causes moisture to creep in between the coating and substrate, again causing corrosion that will only be discovered when it is too late. Removal of bitumen and rubberising is costly, time consuming and cannot be overcoated. Sandblasting is required to remove these products. Wax Coatings Wax Coatings are self-sealing, meaning that when damage occurs, it has the ability to repair itself. As it self-seals, it traps moisture and contaminants between the coating and substrate, resulting in rust creep. Additionally it never completely cures and will drip when the weather is hot. Powder Coating Powder Coating is unsuitable for vehicle chassis due to its inflexible nature. Easily damaged, it does not offer sufficient protection against rust creep. Powder Coating cannot be repaired and needs to be sandblasted and re-coated, making this an expensive and ineffective option. Aftermarket Paint Products When choosing the best paint, the following properties are crucial: Adhesion – strong adhesion ensures no flaking, peeling or rust creep Strength – chip and scrape resistance Flexibility – a vehicle chassis constantly flexes and bends, the coating must be able to move with the chassis Excellent anti-corrosion properties Acid, Salt and Alkaline resistant Thin Film even application – your mechanic will love you. No changes in nut and bolt sizes. Easy chip and chafing damage repair – choose a product with multiple over coating abilities that does not require the removal of the paint before reapplying. No paint is bullet proof. Off-roading vehicles will experience stone chips, scraping and sand blasting. Easy repair will save thousands in recoating. Oil Coatings Choose oil that penetrates , dries and has been tested against acid, salt and alkaline drag. Most oils on the market stay wet, dripping all over the place and needs to be reapplied frequently. Dust and grime settles in the wet oil, resulting in a dirty looking chassis. Before spending hard earned cash on products that only tick some of these requirements, contact us for solutions that have stood the test of time, and carry the “Anthony” stamp of approval. When all is said and done, proper chassis maintenance will add years to the longevity of your vehicle.
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